Supported by the ocean, I always return to her when I need to find inner peace and become grounded.
I am often left speechless at how beautiful life really is, how lucky we as humans really are.
To feel is such a magical thing.
1. ENCINITAS, CALIFORNIA
Photographer: Cole Beal
This is was the first professional photo I got surfing. At one of my favorite waves in my home town San Diego. This is where my passion was born.
2. DIAMOND HEAD
Photographer: Asia Anderson
This was on a windy day with one of my island sisters.
We were smiling and having fun. Oahu is where my surfing expanded.
I was surrounded by some of the best surfers in the world.
3. NORTH SHORE
Photographer: Chloe Ganahl
It was small with an empty line up.
No doubt we were gonna go.
Hours enjoying the crystal clear water,
and life that surrounded us as we
danced in the waves.
4. FRIGATES PASSAGE, FIJI
Photographer: Local Surfer
My first international surf trip, eyes opened to a world
of culture and hidden beauty. An hour boat ride off the coast. This reef patch was surrounded by nothing but open ocean. Imagine the feeling of floating there.
5. RAINBOW BAY
Photographer: Keith Christie
First solo trip.
My heart nestled in to the East Coast of Australia.
Style was shown to me here, unfolding my dance.
6. BALANGAN BEACH BALI,
Photographer: Kent Juliawan
I came here to charge.
Trained for months prior during the winter in Hawaii.
I craved the thrill of trying to paddle over a big set.
My confidence grew as I enjoyed the peaceful island of Bali.
I learned to know my strengths and was always keen for an adventure.
8. DA NANG, VIETNAM
This was not a surf trip.
We were on our visa run from Indo hoping to get some action.
Timing worked out perfectly, and we scored one day of endless peelers.
I was frothing.
9. SORAKE BEACH NIAS, INDONESIA
The world famous remote island off West Sumatra.
Nerves were building the closer we got to arriving.
I left with some of the most beautiful moments in my life. This paradise was magic.
10. GERUPUK LOMBOK, INDONESIA
Surfing in a bay surrounded by empty mountains and cliffs with a few small villages along the shore.
An epic boat ride to a perfect right.It does not get much better than this.
11. YOYO’S SUMBAWA, INDONESIA
Photographer: Santos Wau
It was quiet and controlled by nature.
My smile was huge and my soul pure.
By far the most unreal adventure of my life.