Indonesian Thanksgiving. An American holiday celebrating what you are grateful for. How perfect that I am here, doing what I love with complete gratitude on this holiday. Even though I am far from my family my heart is near, always, and my love for them is beyond words. I am so thankful for the people that raised me and the life that I have been fortunate enough to live.
Breakfast was served at 8:30am and we headed to Gerupuk, my favorite wave, right after. I was so stoked to finally surf there this trip and get some shots from Ivan and Eka. The boat ride out is my favorite, through the fishing village and gazing out at the open land. My mind wanders to never never land in times like this. It’s what I live for.
We arrived at the outside wave and it had quite a lot of people but it was clean and consistent. I quickly paddled out to the line up and got a wave within a few minutes. I was on. Ready to dance and flow in the ocean, my smile was from ear to ear almost the entire time. I can’t count how many waves I caught, positioning myself with confidence at the peak every time. The local boys acknowledged me and commented on my surfing, I humbly said thank you and earned my respect in the water. I could have sat out there all day if the sun wasn’t so strong! The waves just kept coming and my feet kept moving. Best surf of the trip on the most perfect Thanksgiving day.
Back to Xanadu for lunch and some chilling at the pool. We enjoyed playing in the water and taking lifestyle photos. I’m amazed at how talented Eka and Ivan both are behind the camera, their creative, direction, eye for the good shot, is just beautiful! I love seeing what they capture and am so so so happy to be apart of it here in Lombok.
We headed to Tanjung Aan late afternoon for some more fun shots and met up with another friend who had his motorbike on the beach. Laughing for hours and freezing these pieces of beauty, memories of a lifetime, together. It was a special time with good vibes only. I love these people!! I am inspired and uplifted by my experiences here and feel motivated to continue living my dreams, that is all I could ever ask for. Being apart of this has been MAGIC. Best believe there is much more to come.
After a shower and relaxing sunset time we headed to The Patio Lombok for our dinner and cheerfully ate together, oh how I will miss these family times. Now off to bed! Ready to rise with the sun again tomorrow morning. Good night.